La exposición «Inventing The Runway» en Londres lleva a los asistentes a un viaje inmersivo a través de algunos de los desfiles de moda más innovadores y revolucionarios de las últimas décadas. Desde robots que interactúan con las modelos hasta lanzamientos de cohetes y transformaciones surrealistas, estos desfiles no solo mostraron ropa, sino que también desafiaron las convenciones y empujaron los límites de lo que la moda puede ser. Aquí, exploramos cinco de los desfiles más épicos que cobran vida en esta espectacular exposición:
- Alexander McQueen: Primavera-Verano 1999
McQueen es sinónimo de arte en la pasarela, y este desfile no fue la excepción. Aimee Mullins, atleta paralímpica, abrió el desfile con prótesis de madera, mientras que Shalom Harlow cerró con una performance impactante. Subida a un disco giratorio, la modelo fue rociada por dos robots con pintura negra y verde, evocando una instalación de la artista Rebecca Horn. La mezcla de tecnología, arte y moda dejó una huella imborrable en la industria. - Hussein Chalayan: Otoño-Invierno 2000
En este desfile, Chalayan se adentró en el tema del exilio y la transformación. Las modelos caminaban por una pasarela diseñada como una sala de estar, pero lo más sorprendente fue el final: las sillas se transformaban en maletas y muebles en prendas, como una mesa que se convertía en una falda de madera. Chalayan fusionó lo surreal con la moda, creando un espectáculo que iba más allá de la ropa. - Tom Ford: Primavera-Verano 2011
En un acto de rebelión contra la uniformidad de los desfiles convencionales, Tom Ford presentó su primera colección de mujeres en seis años sin modelos tradicionales. En su lugar, invitó a iconos como Beyoncé y Marisa Berenson para mostrar su visión de la moda. Ford celebró la diversidad de cuerpos y edades, eligiendo específicamente a cada mujer para cada prenda. Fue un desfile de celebridades que cambió la forma de ver la moda. - Chanel: Otoño-Invierno 2017
Karl Lagerfeld nunca dejó de sorprender, y su desfile de otoño/invierno 2017 fue un claro ejemplo de su genio. En el Grand Palais, el diseñador presentó una escena futurista en la que un cohete de 35 metros se «lanzó» hacia el techo, acompañando a los modelos vestidos con prendas inspiradas en la exploración espacial. La atmósfera era un homenaje a la ciencia, la tecnología y el progreso, todo con un toque distintivo de Chanel. - Balenciaga: Otoño-Invierno 2020
Demna Gvasalia de Balenciaga llevó la moda a otro nivel al crear una pasarela inundada. En la exposición, se recreó el desfile de otoño/invierno 2020, donde las modelos caminaron sobre agua, mientras las luces mostraban imágenes de desastres climáticos y catástrofes apocalípticas. Este desfile fue un comentario visual sobre el cambio climático y un ejemplo perfecto de cómo la moda puede ser un medio para abordar problemas globales.
Estos desfiles no solo presentaron colecciones, sino que contaron historias a través de la moda, fusionando el arte, la tecnología y el activismo. «Inventing The Runway» permite a los visitantes experimentar en primera persona el poder de estos momentos transformadores que redefinieron la pasarela.
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